August 2008. It's been too hot for too long, and I'm receiving the first few drops. Nothing serious yet, but it will change quickly. And I forgot to bring an umbrella.
The first shelter is 10 m behind, a taxi waiting 20 m ahead. I decide to go ahead.
Wrong pick. All of a sudden hell breaks loose and whole buckets start falling over me. The time to reach the cab, I'm soaked to the bone.
The drivers studies me and his face tells it all : "I'm sorry, but I can't take you : you would ruin my seats".
Stupidly standing under the pouring rain, I'm cursing myself. I've got no choice but to walk back home.
And then I realise that I can also swim back home.
Cheonggyecheon is right in front of me but I won't even have to step in : right now, it's as if I were already in the streamlet, taking a shower. Besides, the water feels good and warm. So why not enjoy it fully ?
I'm "swimming" on the sidewalks with a big smile on my face, now. Crammed under small umbrellas, passers-by roll their eyes or smile back. Some look almost jalous. At the Jongno-Sejongno crossing, I meet a fellow swimmer. We wave happily at each other, and for the first time I understand that we are the only ones not looking stupid, after all. It's a beautiful city, a beautiful day, a beautiful moment.
Home is getting closer and I'll have to find a way in without flooding the entrance. But that's a different story.
Friday, November 14, 2008
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Korea snubs History
As History unfolded itself yesterday, South Korea lamely produced this first official statement : we will not renegociate the US-ROK FTA.
Come on.
Even Iran came out with a white flag. China's Premier Wen Jiabao made a new display of his great intelligence, and only Russia uttered harsh critics via Dmitri Medvedev.
This is not only the worst way of starting a discussion but an embarrassingly counter-productive way of showing muscle.
Instead of congratulations (not to mention French-style contrition for the way the country is coping with multi-ethnicity at home), this friendly country acted if it were the sole member of an obsolete, Bush-era-, segment-of-one- coalition of the unwilling.
Come on.
Even Iran came out with a white flag. China's Premier Wen Jiabao made a new display of his great intelligence, and only Russia uttered harsh critics via Dmitri Medvedev.
This is not only the worst way of starting a discussion but an embarrassingly counter-productive way of showing muscle.
Instead of congratulations (not to mention French-style contrition for the way the country is coping with multi-ethnicity at home), this friendly country acted if it were the sole member of an obsolete, Bush-era-, segment-of-one- coalition of the unwilling.
Tuesday, October 21, 2008
China ready to bail out North Korea
The Chinese are rumored to be piling up troops on the North Korean border.
Observers are expecting major announcements from North Korea regarding their Dear Leader.
John McCain is dreaming of an October surprise that could put economy behind security in voters minds.
Gallup released yesterday a poll on the perception of US elections across 70 nations. Overall, Obama leads by a 4 to 1 ratio (2 to 1 in South Korea), and only two countries would prefer McCain as the next president : Philippines and Georgia.
Ever since Russia invaded Georgia, I've been fearing the same scenario for Korea : as soon as KIM Jong-il is out of the picture, the North Korean regime invite Beijing to rescue them. China anschlusses North Korea, Uncle Sam uses his right to remain silent, BAN Ki-moon chokes on a NYC pretzel on his way to the UN, and South Korea cannot do anything.
One must definitely speak up before it's too late.
Observers are expecting major announcements from North Korea regarding their Dear Leader.
John McCain is dreaming of an October surprise that could put economy behind security in voters minds.
Gallup released yesterday a poll on the perception of US elections across 70 nations. Overall, Obama leads by a 4 to 1 ratio (2 to 1 in South Korea), and only two countries would prefer McCain as the next president : Philippines and Georgia.
Ever since Russia invaded Georgia, I've been fearing the same scenario for Korea : as soon as KIM Jong-il is out of the picture, the North Korean regime invite Beijing to rescue them. China anschlusses North Korea, Uncle Sam uses his right to remain silent, BAN Ki-moon chokes on a NYC pretzel on his way to the UN, and South Korea cannot do anything.
One must definitely speak up before it's too late.
Tuesday, September 23, 2008
Forest Dump
Over the last 5 years, 42,513 hectares of forest land vanished in Korea*, 24.3% of which in Gyeonggi-do alone. We are talking about almost one soccer field per hour. And we're talking about a country 55 times smaller than the Amazon Rainforest**.
The Yonhap article gives the details for 52% of the total (23,646 ha - which could cover the 2004-2007 period) :
- 30.5% have been converted into housing land,
- 25.0% into commercial land or factories,
- 22.7% into roads, and an amazing
- 21.8% into golf courses (yes, 5,159 soccer fields)
Yonhap also cites Rep. CHOUNG Hae-gul who pointed out that the number of cases of illegal destruction of forest land rose 20% from 2004 to 2007 (2,070 to 2,492). And the example from the top is not precisely sound : LEE Myung-bak, the former "green" mayor of Seoul who fathered Seoul Forest, wants to cut big chunks of Seoul's green belt in a massive housing program. It won't take long before developers go at the city's biggest lungs : the forests covering its beautiful mountains.
New gardens keep popping up across the city, and I'm happy to see new regulation forcing villa redevelopments to devote part of the land to green spaces, but a significant portions of new public "gardens" are covered with concrete, tasteless fountains, and "ornaments" looking like plastic toys.
They're just breaking ground in front of the Seoul Museum of History on Shinmun-ro, and according to the blueprints, one can expect a net biomass decrease (idem for nearby Sejongno / Gwanghwamun Plaza)...
I also wish the "Hang-gang Renaissance" were more about actual "well being" and less about clumsy "touristization". Seoul is on the right track when it highlights the essential role of its river and streams, but it should make sure that what's built makes sense for the long term.
** 84 times if you consider that 65% of South Korea are classified as forest land (courtesy Park Chung-hee's reforestation program)
Sunday, September 14, 2008
Hamheung Naengmyeon (Seoul)
A tiny hanok in the small market street behind Gyeongbokgung Station serves delicious cold noodles with raw skate fish (hoe naengmyeon), along with fantastic mandu. North Korean style (Hamheung is a city located in Hamgyeongnam-do, on the other side of the DMZ), but not as lethal as Ojangdong Hamheung Nengmyeon.
Pilun-dong 205-1, Jongno-gu,
SEOUL, ROK
Tel +82.2.3210-3337
Hamheung Naengmyeon (함흥냉면 - 전문점)
Wednesday, September 10, 2008
KIM Jong-Ill ?
KIM Jong-il has never been so close to his own people : The Dear Leader is said to be in very poor condition, if not dead.
A stroke allegedly diminished him a few weeks ago, which explains his embarrassing absence for the 60th Anniversary of the nation.
True or false, this doesn't really come as a surprise, and raises once more the issue of succession. Obviously, the dynasty is over : the regime is smart enough to have seen that one coming, but didn't prepare the people the same way as it did in the early 90s (the World's first successful human cloning). There is probably a stock of images ready to roll featuring the Dear Movie Fan as a phantom Movie Star. One of his kids could wave at the camera from time to time, but other people would actually run the show.
An impersonal military college could run the country for a while, but not maintain the regime for the decades to come. Doomsday scenarists see them go with a bang, optimists envision a peaceful transition towards democracy, utopists dream of a Barack Obama coming out of the Choson blue, and the vast majority expect troubled times ahead.
My base case scenarios ? Either a "Albanian style collapse" (to the nth power) or a "Georgia style Anschluss" by China.
I guess North Korean leaders will prefer the latter. Needless to say Beijing is ready.
A stroke allegedly diminished him a few weeks ago, which explains his embarrassing absence for the 60th Anniversary of the nation.
True or false, this doesn't really come as a surprise, and raises once more the issue of succession. Obviously, the dynasty is over : the regime is smart enough to have seen that one coming, but didn't prepare the people the same way as it did in the early 90s (the World's first successful human cloning). There is probably a stock of images ready to roll featuring the Dear Movie Fan as a phantom Movie Star. One of his kids could wave at the camera from time to time, but other people would actually run the show.
An impersonal military college could run the country for a while, but not maintain the regime for the decades to come. Doomsday scenarists see them go with a bang, optimists envision a peaceful transition towards democracy, utopists dream of a Barack Obama coming out of the Choson blue, and the vast majority expect troubled times ahead.
My base case scenarios ? Either a "Albanian style collapse" (to the nth power) or a "Georgia style Anschluss" by China.
I guess North Korean leaders will prefer the latter. Needless to say Beijing is ready.
Tuesday, August 26, 2008
Miryang Son Mandu (Seoul)
Jaedong-gil, Gye-dong, Jongno-gu
(on the main street leading to the Joongang school - across the Jongno soccer association)
Tel : +82.2.744.3272
Miryang Son Mandu (밀양손만두)
In spite of the multiplication of art galleries, cafes and trendy shops, Gahoe-dong has not been totally Cheongdam-dongized yet. But it's definitely following similar patterns. Even if slightly more the Frisco than the L.A. way...
Nearby Gye-dong is also turning into a hot spot, but with a different flavor. Tourists have been fancying Bukchon area's traditional houses for some time, and the local administration intends to push further its architectural integrity. Newly built Hanoks pop up every year and it does make a difference.
Yes, you'll find this dumpling restaurant in a recent, non-descript, 3-4-story building. But its five or six tables are full of kind people and covered with delicious handmade mandu / manduguk. And it doesn't feel like you're in downtown Seoul ; rather in a quiet city far away from the Capital. I don't know whether that felling will last or not, but this restaurant would better not turn into yet another artificial tea house.
SM 2008
(on the main street leading to the Joongang school - across the Jongno soccer association)
Tel : +82.2.744.3272
Miryang Son Mandu (밀양손만두)
In spite of the multiplication of art galleries, cafes and trendy shops, Gahoe-dong has not been totally Cheongdam-dongized yet. But it's definitely following similar patterns. Even if slightly more the Frisco than the L.A. way...
Nearby Gye-dong is also turning into a hot spot, but with a different flavor. Tourists have been fancying Bukchon area's traditional houses for some time, and the local administration intends to push further its architectural integrity. Newly built Hanoks pop up every year and it does make a difference.
Yes, you'll find this dumpling restaurant in a recent, non-descript, 3-4-story building. But its five or six tables are full of kind people and covered with delicious handmade mandu / manduguk. And it doesn't feel like you're in downtown Seoul ; rather in a quiet city far away from the Capital. I don't know whether that felling will last or not, but this restaurant would better not turn into yet another artificial tea house.
SM 2008
Monday, August 25, 2008
Hyehwa-dong Rotary
Another elevated road has been removed. Less spectacular than Cheonggyecheon's restoration, the denudation of Hyehwa-dong Rotary is already completely redefining a key crossroads up Daehangno (connections with Changgyeonggungno South-Westwards, Uamro North-Westwards, and mainly Dongsomunro and Seongbuk-gu North-Eastwards).
The reconstruction site is still at its early steps, and green patches have yet to be drawn, but what used to be a scary dark space covered by concrete already looks like the sun catching, passers-by friendly grand' place of a village.
Well. It takes some imagination to see that... but it took some vision and courage to get rid of this convenient shortcut between Mia Sagori and downtown Seoul.
This city is definitely starting to consider passers-by higher on the evolution scale than mere parasites.
The reconstruction site is still at its early steps, and green patches have yet to be drawn, but what used to be a scary dark space covered by concrete already looks like the sun catching, passers-by friendly grand' place of a village.
Well. It takes some imagination to see that... but it took some vision and courage to get rid of this convenient shortcut between Mia Sagori and downtown Seoul.
This city is definitely starting to consider passers-by higher on the evolution scale than mere parasites.
Sunday, August 24, 2008
Chuck Close at Sungkok Art Museum
The Sungkok Architectural Garden used to have a lovely view on the Gyeongbokgung and Cheonghwadae, but it is now blocked by the Gyeonghuigungoe Achim and Space Bon complexes.
Whatever. The spot remains a cool and peaceful place to enjoy a drink and browse an exhibition.
These days, the museum is hosting the 12th stop of the Chuck Close tour*. The craftsman's work is a tale of patience and organization, and to me, this highly collaborative dimension is the main reason why Close should not be considered an autist (his speech and choice of subjects beyond himself coming distant second and third).
There is something almost Stanley Kubrikish about his obsession for processes and tools, to the risk of producing something vaguely passé. But I feel much more comfortable with a "Dr Strangelove" and a "Barry Lyndon" on my shelves rather than with a Close up my wall.
* "Chuck Close Prints - Process and collaboration" (from 20080619 to 20080928)
Sungkok Art Museum - Shinmunro-2-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul, ROK - Tel +82.2.737.7650
Whatever. The spot remains a cool and peaceful place to enjoy a drink and browse an exhibition.
These days, the museum is hosting the 12th stop of the Chuck Close tour*. The craftsman's work is a tale of patience and organization, and to me, this highly collaborative dimension is the main reason why Close should not be considered an autist (his speech and choice of subjects beyond himself coming distant second and third).
There is something almost Stanley Kubrikish about his obsession for processes and tools, to the risk of producing something vaguely passé. But I feel much more comfortable with a "Dr Strangelove" and a "Barry Lyndon" on my shelves rather than with a Close up my wall.
* "Chuck Close Prints - Process and collaboration" (from 20080619 to 20080928)
Sungkok Art Museum - Shinmunro-2-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul, ROK - Tel +82.2.737.7650
Wednesday, August 20, 2008
National Museum of Korea indeed
The first time I visited Korea's National Museum, it was in late 1991, halfway during its stay in the former Japanese General Government Building that used to hide Gwanghwamun.
Back then, Yongsan Army Base was still a mostly empty space, and the Dragon Hill the highest and ugliest building around. The Yongsan Family Park was yet to be opened (1992), the stalinicoid War Memorial extension to be erected (1994), and the new museum to be inaugurated (2005).
What struck me as I first discovered this massive monolith in 2005 was the size and the dullness of the architecture. But the collections were offered a much better display, with a priority on pedagogy and chronology. Not very creative : a little bit like at the Incheon Airport, you know at a glance which gate will lead you to your destination.
Pedagogy is one thing, propaganda another. And I don't like the political tone this museum seems to be taking these days.
The ROK is celebrating its 60th anniversary and an exhibition on the national flag makes sense. And I was not surprised to notice a dramatic change in the place devoted to the Goguryo era, but what to think of the comments on Dokdo in the new and improved map section ?
The other day, at the Tokyo National Museum, I felt the same unease (ie chronologies that could have been written by Shinichi Fujimura), but not at the same scale.
I hope that what used to be National Musea won't turn into Nationalist Fora ad nausea.
Anyway, the place is always worth the visit :
National Museum of Korea (국립중앙박물관)
135 Seobingo-ro, Yongsan-gu, Seoul, ROK
"Taegukgi" exhibition : from 20080814 to 20081119
Monday, August 18, 2008
Jyeong-dong Guk Si (Seoul)
Jung-gu, Jeong-dong 22-2
SEOUL, ROK
Tel : +82.732.0114
Jyeong-dong Guk Si / Jyeongdong Guksi (졍동국시)
Cold noodles in soy milk (Kong-guksu / 콩국수) can be the most refreshing dishes in summer. The sesame version (Kkae-guksu / 깨국수) is tastier, and Jyeongdong Guksi's may be too tasty to be totally natural.
But then there is the location : on Deoksugung-gil, not far from the Jeongdong-sagori and the Nanta Theater. If your idea of a snack is rather a sandwich, cross the street and go to Ihwa's Birds & Bugs cafe.
SM 2008
SEOUL, ROK
Tel : +82.732.0114
Jyeong-dong Guk Si / Jyeongdong Guksi (졍동국시)
Cold noodles in soy milk (Kong-guksu / 콩국수) can be the most refreshing dishes in summer. The sesame version (Kkae-guksu / 깨국수) is tastier, and Jyeongdong Guksi's may be too tasty to be totally natural.
But then there is the location : on Deoksugung-gil, not far from the Jeongdong-sagori and the Nanta Theater. If your idea of a snack is rather a sandwich, cross the street and go to Ihwa's Birds & Bugs cafe.
SM 2008
Tuesday, August 12, 2008
Waiting for the next Olympic games
Following the Olympic Games on Korean TV can be kind of frustrating : the volume of images is absolutely gigantic, but they mostly consist of runs and reruns of Korean triumphs because TV rights have been awarded to a pool of all major broadcasters, and for fear of losing the audience wars, no one dares show any event featuring no national athlete.
And even when there is a Korean athlete, you need to get the side informations over the web (no, I don't enjoy watching Park Tae-hwan ad nauseam and yes, Michael Phelps won that race and snatched a world record).
SBS more than doubled the price to get the TV rights for Olympic Games 2010-2014. The $72.5M deal includes full multimedia rights for North Korea.
Let's hope that by then, all bad habits will have changed both sides of the DMZ.
And even when there is a Korean athlete, you need to get the side informations over the web (no, I don't enjoy watching Park Tae-hwan ad nauseam and yes, Michael Phelps won that race and snatched a world record).
SBS more than doubled the price to get the TV rights for Olympic Games 2010-2014. The $72.5M deal includes full multimedia rights for North Korea.
Let's hope that by then, all bad habits will have changed both sides of the DMZ.
Thursday, August 7, 2008
Korea on the rocks part II
Winds have been blowing in many directions over Dokdo since our last visit*.
Japanese hardliners could almost claim victory after getting from the US Board of Geographic Names to obliterate Dokdo and to promote the Japanese-leaning "Liancourt Rocks" and "Sea of Japan" labels.
But then LEE Myung-bak and George W. Bush met, sat down, prayed for a while, and voila Dokdo back on the maps.
Yasuo Fukuda, the Japanese Prime Minister who obviously switched to nationalist mode only to prepare his cabinet reshuffle, will probably have to visit Yasukuni shrine a few times and ignite a few controversies in order to remain in power. I don't wish him good luck.
And now China is claiming Ieodo (Parangdo until 2001 - Suyan Rock for China and Socotra Rocks for the ROTW), a rock located between Jeju-do and China**. I'm not familiar with this issue but if the closest uncontested territories are Korean, then Chinese, then Japanese, Korea's claim seems less evident than for Dokdo.
As an underwater body, the rock cannot be claimed by anyone, but Korea built the Ieodo Ocean Research Station (along with a helipad) on its top during the 90s.
On that one, China's move seems rather defensive... But ever the best strategists, the Chinese pick the best timing to position themselves : Bush is leaving Taiwan today for Beijing in order to attend the Opening Ceremony of the 2008 Olympic Games.
Speaking of games... this looks like chess : will Korea declare pat with China (OK for the neutrality of this area as an act of goodwill, but you stop claiming the Goguryeo heritage) ? or will Korea cling to this Ieodo pawn to the risk of threatening his Dokdo royal couple ?
* see "Claiming Dokdo as Takeshima equals claiming Seoul as Gyeongseong" (20080518), and the following blogules in French : "Le Japon décide de recoloniser Dokdo" (20080714) and "Néofascisme et racisme au programme" (20080719)
** see "China Promotes Claims over Korean Island" (20080808 Chosun Ilbo)
Japanese hardliners could almost claim victory after getting from the US Board of Geographic Names to obliterate Dokdo and to promote the Japanese-leaning "Liancourt Rocks" and "Sea of Japan" labels.
But then LEE Myung-bak and George W. Bush met, sat down, prayed for a while, and voila Dokdo back on the maps.
Yasuo Fukuda, the Japanese Prime Minister who obviously switched to nationalist mode only to prepare his cabinet reshuffle, will probably have to visit Yasukuni shrine a few times and ignite a few controversies in order to remain in power. I don't wish him good luck.
And now China is claiming Ieodo (Parangdo until 2001 - Suyan Rock for China and Socotra Rocks for the ROTW), a rock located between Jeju-do and China**. I'm not familiar with this issue but if the closest uncontested territories are Korean, then Chinese, then Japanese, Korea's claim seems less evident than for Dokdo.
As an underwater body, the rock cannot be claimed by anyone, but Korea built the Ieodo Ocean Research Station (along with a helipad) on its top during the 90s.
On that one, China's move seems rather defensive... But ever the best strategists, the Chinese pick the best timing to position themselves : Bush is leaving Taiwan today for Beijing in order to attend the Opening Ceremony of the 2008 Olympic Games.
Speaking of games... this looks like chess : will Korea declare pat with China (OK for the neutrality of this area as an act of goodwill, but you stop claiming the Goguryeo heritage) ? or will Korea cling to this Ieodo pawn to the risk of threatening his Dokdo royal couple ?
* see "Claiming Dokdo as Takeshima equals claiming Seoul as Gyeongseong" (20080518), and the following blogules in French : "Le Japon décide de recoloniser Dokdo" (20080714) and "Néofascisme et racisme au programme" (20080719)
** see "China Promotes Claims over Korean Island" (20080808 Chosun Ilbo)
Thursday, July 24, 2008
Haeinsa Temple Janggyeong Panjeon
Over 80,000 delicately carved woodblocks have been resting peacefully on the beautiful slopes of Gayasan for 750 years in buildings that let the air and the eyes of the visitor circulate freely.
Considered the Chinese buddhist canon, this Goryeo Tripitaka or Tripitaka Koreana) is actually a second edition : the original blocks (printing material carved 3.5 centuries before Gutenberg's Bible) were destroyed during a Mongol invasion in the early XIIIth century.
The contrast between the value of this treasure and the simplicity of its shell is striking but refreshing. The perfect reward after climbing a few steep flights of stairs under an unforgiving sun (I confess I used the bus shuttle to skip the hike from the parking lot).
Overlooking a sea of trees, the temple itself is quite welcoming and belongs to the Jogye order (HQs in Jogyesa - temple stay website : templestay.com).
Haein-sa and the Palman Daejanggyeong : haeinsa.or.kr , 80000.or.kr (check for the opening times : the Janggyeong Panjeon will be closed all year in 2010, a recess year)
10 Chiin-ri , Gaya-myeon, Hapcheon-gun, Gyeongsangnam-do
Considered the Chinese buddhist canon, this Goryeo Tripitaka or Tripitaka Koreana) is actually a second edition : the original blocks (printing material carved 3.5 centuries before Gutenberg's Bible) were destroyed during a Mongol invasion in the early XIIIth century.
The contrast between the value of this treasure and the simplicity of its shell is striking but refreshing. The perfect reward after climbing a few steep flights of stairs under an unforgiving sun (I confess I used the bus shuttle to skip the hike from the parking lot).
Overlooking a sea of trees, the temple itself is quite welcoming and belongs to the Jogye order (HQs in Jogyesa - temple stay website : templestay.com).
Haein-sa and the Palman Daejanggyeong : haeinsa.or.kr , 80000.or.kr (check for the opening times : the Janggyeong Panjeon will be closed all year in 2010, a recess year)
10 Chiin-ri , Gaya-myeon, Hapcheon-gun, Gyeongsangnam-do
Wednesday, July 9, 2008
Seoul Village goes Lively
Seoul Village opened a virtual spot on Lively (July 9th, 2008). Feel free to join this open space anytime.
Monday, July 7, 2008
Korea's 16 provinces and metro cities
South Korea has 9 provinces ("do") including the special self governing province ("teukbyeoljachi-do") of Jeju, and 7 metropolitan cities ("Gwangyeoksi") including the Capital, Seoul ("teukbyeolsi" or "Special city") :
Busan-Gwangyeoksi
Chungcheonbuk-do
Chungcheonnam-do
Daegu-Gwangyeoksi
Daejeon-Gwangyeoksi
Gangwon-do
Gwangju-Gwangyeoksi
Gyeonggi-do
Gyeongsangbuk-do
Gyeongsangnam-do
Incheon-Gwangyeoksi
Jeju-do
Jeollabuk-do
Jeollanam-do
Seoul Teukbyeolsi
Ulsan Gwangyeoksi
Busan-Gwangyeoksi
Chungcheonbuk-do
Chungcheonnam-do
Daegu-Gwangyeoksi
Daejeon-Gwangyeoksi
Gangwon-do
Gwangju-Gwangyeoksi
Gyeonggi-do
Gyeongsangbuk-do
Gyeongsangnam-do
Incheon-Gwangyeoksi
Jeju-do
Jeollabuk-do
Jeollanam-do
Seoul Teukbyeolsi
Ulsan Gwangyeoksi
Seoul city advertising campaign
Thumbs up for the latest series of ads "Seoul, Soul of Asia" featuring 4 artists from key countries. A giant leap after Korea's tragical / comical spots with Park Tae-hwan.
Chen Kaige (China, Director)
Murakami Ryu (Japan, Writer)
Anucha Secharunputong (Thailand, Photographer)
George Winston (USA, Pianist)
Chen Kaige (China, Director)
Murakami Ryu (Japan, Writer)
Anucha Secharunputong (Thailand, Photographer)
George Winston (USA, Pianist)
Thursday, July 3, 2008
New Towns and preservation
Seoul Mayor OH Se-hoon is not so popular with New Town developpers and fellow party members such as CHUNG Mong-joon. New projects got stalled for not being enough environmental friendly (OH is pushing for more preservation, especially for green spaces) or "middle class" oriented.
I wish the urban soul were more respected as well. This city definitely needs a better ventilation and more streets to be upgraded, but whole areas are dying from minor but tragic losses in diversity, or because a secondary alley was bulldozed, a key detail destroyed, a unique perspective ruined.
In general, there is no trace whatsoever of the village that existed before the New Town. Promoters don't want potential buyers to be reminded this brand new and well serviced appartment complex used to be a slum or a sewer treatment center, but a city without history nor memory doesn't have any future.
People don't care now but they will. Appartments used to be consumer goods purchased for the brand and the short to medium term added value... status items as superficial as a car when it comes to defining who you are and how you live.
"Well being" is becoming an issue, but then again, totally vain. A check list of functions similar to a luxury pack on your car. More about "sounding / looking well" than about "being / living a good and sound life".
I wish the urban soul were more respected as well. This city definitely needs a better ventilation and more streets to be upgraded, but whole areas are dying from minor but tragic losses in diversity, or because a secondary alley was bulldozed, a key detail destroyed, a unique perspective ruined.
In general, there is no trace whatsoever of the village that existed before the New Town. Promoters don't want potential buyers to be reminded this brand new and well serviced appartment complex used to be a slum or a sewer treatment center, but a city without history nor memory doesn't have any future.
People don't care now but they will. Appartments used to be consumer goods purchased for the brand and the short to medium term added value... status items as superficial as a car when it comes to defining who you are and how you live.
"Well being" is becoming an issue, but then again, totally vain. A check list of functions similar to a luxury pack on your car. More about "sounding / looking well" than about "being / living a good and sound life".
Sunday, June 8, 2008
Haka and axing in Gwanghwamun
45,000.
That's the number of policemen surrounding the neighborhood these days. Non stop.
The equivalent of a fully seated Parc des Princes stadium. Actually, most of the time they are seating on the very pavement, in perfect lines, waiting for the evening, when tens of thousands people rally to protest against LEE Myung-bak.
The President is not even half a mile away (in Cheong Wa Dae), the Government a few hundred yards and the police HQ just across the street.
Demonstrators pick new itinaries every night but the police, well informed, is there to block the passage. The other night people came chanting from Sajik Tunnel and were silenced by the impressive display of the riot squad : each time a new grape of uniforms joined their human wall, the mass would utter GI-style barks and bang its shields. The show is as impressive as a New Zealand haka before a rugby game and everybody has to listen in fear.
Hopefully, this is neither the 70s nor the 80s* and only a few dozen people got hurt in the last 72 hour stand. But if some people are now coming mostly to join the party, most are really angry and many are truly desperate. A man set himself in fire near City Hall.
That's the number of policemen surrounding the neighborhood these days. Non stop.
The equivalent of a fully seated Parc des Princes stadium. Actually, most of the time they are seating on the very pavement, in perfect lines, waiting for the evening, when tens of thousands people rally to protest against LEE Myung-bak.
The President is not even half a mile away (in Cheong Wa Dae), the Government a few hundred yards and the police HQ just across the street.
Demonstrators pick new itinaries every night but the police, well informed, is there to block the passage. The other night people came chanting from Sajik Tunnel and were silenced by the impressive display of the riot squad : each time a new grape of uniforms joined their human wall, the mass would utter GI-style barks and bang its shields. The show is as impressive as a New Zealand haka before a rugby game and everybody has to listen in fear.
Hopefully, this is neither the 70s nor the 80s* and only a few dozen people got hurt in the last 72 hour stand. But if some people are now coming mostly to join the party, most are really angry and many are truly desperate. A man set himself in fire near City Hall.
If the Korean Government can't be blamed for the oil shock nor the dollar dive, the least one could say is that it is not delivering the reforms it announced, and it is not managing the situation in the best of ways.
Heads will necessarily fall. The President cannot afford losing more public support : his approval rates stand below 20. Even GW Bush is hovering far higher these days, and even Nicolas Sarkozy took more time to take such a dive.
A few scapegoats have already been spotted in Cheong Wa Dae. It won't solve anything in the short term but Korea needs everyone to feel concerned and focused. Together.
Let's face it, the near future looks grim, and it could even turn more catastrophic if the North decided to collapse in the months to come.
But unlike in 1998 this country is not in total denial.
* nor even the early 90s, when I caught a few tear gas fumes for being at the wrong place at the wrong moment.
Monday, May 26, 2008
Sinsikdang (Damyang)
Jeollanam-do, Damyang-eup, Damju-ri 68
DAMYANG, ROK (Jeollanam-do)
Tel +82.61.382.9901
Sinsikdang / 신식당 (restaurant)
Sinsikdang means "new restaurant". Yet, they're supposed to be cooking their mouthwatering ddeokgalbi (떡갈비) for three generations ; the kind that rocks your palate (the meat, not the gems on which they're presented).
Some pretend the interior could be cosier. Or the noodle soup tastes even better.
I don't care. I had both. Twice.
And the next day I swiched beef for pork across the street : yummy ribs / Galbi too, even more "no thrill" service... except for the yelling adjochi / psycho maitre d'.
And the next day it was time to expose my own ribs at the local spa.
Fat chance.
Their website : sinsikdang.co.kr.
DAMYANG, ROK (Jeollanam-do)
Tel +82.61.382.9901
Sinsikdang / 신식당 (restaurant)
Sinsikdang means "new restaurant". Yet, they're supposed to be cooking their mouthwatering ddeokgalbi (떡갈비) for three generations ; the kind that rocks your palate (the meat, not the gems on which they're presented).
Some pretend the interior could be cosier. Or the noodle soup tastes even better.
I don't care. I had both. Twice.
And the next day I swiched beef for pork across the street : yummy ribs / Galbi too, even more "no thrill" service... except for the yelling adjochi / psycho maitre d'.
And the next day it was time to expose my own ribs at the local spa.
Fat chance.
SM 2007
Their website : sinsikdang.co.kr.
Sunday, May 25, 2008
Restaurants in Korea
Seoul guides are full of great restaurants and it would be impossible for me to list all the places where I enjoyed fantastic food since 1991 : Seoul is probably the best city in the world for affordable delicious meals (starting from street food and market snacks, and all the way up to the usual upscale suspects).
Unfortunately, I lost most of the cards I picked up (if any) after such moments of bliss. Besides, I'm too lazy to dig into my porous memory. Furthermore, some joints may have closed or turned into one of those ugly high rise tombstone appartment buildings.
So every now and then I write something down on this excuse for a site. Those lucky ones are not necessarily the best spots (except for The Gaon, of course). Feel free to leave a comment, an update or a recommendation. But don't sue me if you get sick, lost or both.
You can browse all the posts with the label "restaurant", and I'll try to update the list below once in a while.
They already have a home in Seoul Village :
Unfortunately, I lost most of the cards I picked up (if any) after such moments of bliss. Besides, I'm too lazy to dig into my porous memory. Furthermore, some joints may have closed or turned into one of those ugly high rise tombstone appartment buildings.
So every now and then I write something down on this excuse for a site. Those lucky ones are not necessarily the best spots (except for The Gaon, of course). Feel free to leave a comment, an update or a recommendation. But don't sue me if you get sick, lost or both.
You can browse all the posts with the label "restaurant", and I'll try to update the list below once in a while.
They already have a home in Seoul Village :
Gaon (Gangnam-gu, SEOUL)
Woo-Jeong Nakji (Jongno-gu, SEOUL)
Ojangdong Hamheung Nengmyeon (Jung-gu, SEOUL)
Jyeong-dong Guk Si (Jung-gu, SEOUL)
Mirak (Gangbuk-gu, SEOUL)
25H Myeonok (Seongdong-gu, SEOUL)
Mabang Jip (Gyeonggi-do / HANNAM)
Sinsikdang (Jeollanam-do / DAMYANG)
Chungwon Hwaegwan (Jeollanam-do / YEONGAM)
Beefing up Korea
Red carpet to Middle Eastern and other Arab nations : one month ahead of the KAS (The Korea-Arab Society), 22 Arab countries are attending a conference in Seoul today.
Cultural issues will be mentioned, and Seoulites are already invited to enjoy local delicacies at the Arab Cultural Festival*, but the menu clearly highlights energy and oil supplies as the main dish. I guess we'll also get a slice of real estate and finance : LEE Myung-bak never made a mystery of his intentions to see more petrodollars reaching the Korean shores.
Korea will definitely need some help in the months to come (inflation, weaker won, commodity and food prices, slower growth...). The real estate sector faces gloomy times : more constructors are going bankrupt, some banks may fall, and more than a few individuals as well (non-fixed rates are favored here as well / bad).
And the MBtious President needs to deliver some good news for his own good : he had to apologize last week for not warning the public about the resumption of US beef imports**.
In spite of LEE's affection, US is not exactly the most popular flavor around Gwanghwamun these days***, and building partnerships with new players should pay in the long term as well : France secured many important deals in times of trouble thanks to similar ties with Arab countries.
* this should go beyond the usual spots near Itaewon's Mosque. See Arab Cultural Festival website : arabculturalfest.com. (June 6 to 8, 2008)
** mad cow disease is a relevant issue, but Korea should also cope with other food related health hazards, not to mention asbestos in the subway, cancerous materials used in interiors... a specific agency seems long overdue.
*** unless Obama wins - Barack asked the Government to give up Korean - US FTA
---
update 20080527 - Al Ahli Group and Busan city teaming up to make a Marvel Entertainment theme park by H1 2013... this is not exactly the kind of cultural outcome one could have expected from this conference... nevermind. The best sashimis on Haeundae courtesy Wolverine ?
Cultural issues will be mentioned, and Seoulites are already invited to enjoy local delicacies at the Arab Cultural Festival*, but the menu clearly highlights energy and oil supplies as the main dish. I guess we'll also get a slice of real estate and finance : LEE Myung-bak never made a mystery of his intentions to see more petrodollars reaching the Korean shores.
Korea will definitely need some help in the months to come (inflation, weaker won, commodity and food prices, slower growth...). The real estate sector faces gloomy times : more constructors are going bankrupt, some banks may fall, and more than a few individuals as well (non-fixed rates are favored here as well / bad).
And the MBtious President needs to deliver some good news for his own good : he had to apologize last week for not warning the public about the resumption of US beef imports**.
In spite of LEE's affection, US is not exactly the most popular flavor around Gwanghwamun these days***, and building partnerships with new players should pay in the long term as well : France secured many important deals in times of trouble thanks to similar ties with Arab countries.
* this should go beyond the usual spots near Itaewon's Mosque. See Arab Cultural Festival website : arabculturalfest.com. (June 6 to 8, 2008)
** mad cow disease is a relevant issue, but Korea should also cope with other food related health hazards, not to mention asbestos in the subway, cancerous materials used in interiors... a specific agency seems long overdue.
*** unless Obama wins - Barack asked the Government to give up Korean - US FTA
---
update 20080527 - Al Ahli Group and Busan city teaming up to make a Marvel Entertainment theme park by H1 2013... this is not exactly the kind of cultural outcome one could have expected from this conference... nevermind. The best sashimis on Haeundae courtesy Wolverine ?
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
25h Myeonok
Seongdong-gu, Haengdong-dong 286-4,
SEOUL, ROK
Tel : +82.2.2297.8522
25H Myeonok / 25시면옥 (restaurant)
Wanghimni Newtown will not rise before a few more years. Yet, the area is changing at a very quick pace, starting from Wangshimni Station. Just like with Cheonggyecheon, many shops adopted the same system of wooden signs, masking the ugly old buildings behind. New constructions are already changing the main street, internal franchises and banks tend to multiply.
25si Meyonok is not likely to disappear that soon. This small noodle specialist offers a fake traditional decor but a very good, simple and cheap sujebi (수제비 also writen Sujoebi or Sujeobi after its sujeop-bi origin).
SM2008
SEOUL, ROK
Tel : +82.2.2297.8522
25H Myeonok / 25시면옥 (restaurant)
Wanghimni Newtown will not rise before a few more years. Yet, the area is changing at a very quick pace, starting from Wangshimni Station. Just like with Cheonggyecheon, many shops adopted the same system of wooden signs, masking the ugly old buildings behind. New constructions are already changing the main street, internal franchises and banks tend to multiply.
25si Meyonok is not likely to disappear that soon. This small noodle specialist offers a fake traditional decor but a very good, simple and cheap sujebi (수제비 also writen Sujoebi or Sujeobi after its sujeop-bi origin).
SM2008
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Claiming Dokdo as Takeshima equals claiming Seoul as Gyeongseong
According to the Chosun Ilbo, from 2012, "all social studies textbooks for middle school students will have to describe the Dokdo Islets, or Takeshima in Japanese, as Japanese territory"*.
Again**, Dokdo Islets are Korean territories, and even the Japanese government told so in the late XIXth century. Dokdo has been under the Japanese flag only during the Occupation, and the "Takeshima" claims are purely driven by the neofascist revival in the archipelago.
The vast majority of Japanese people are not claiming Dokdo / Takeshima. The core of the debate is not between Korea and Japan but between today's Japan and yesterday's Japan. And the key question is : which Japan will rule in the future ?
Actually, saving Dokdo is about saving Japan.
Epidermic reactions in Korea are exactly what these warmongers want : it ridicules all their other claims of restoration of the truth regarding the darkest face of the Showa rule (ie comfort women). And the contrast with the silent and indifferent Japanese people is striking. Actually, it is more ignorance than indifference : German kids know much more about Nazism than Japanese adults about the atrocities caused by the facist regime that ruled the region during the first half of last century.
It's up to the Japanese people to decide : allow those warmongers to set the diplomatic agenda and rewrite textbooks for the next generations, or continue on their peaceful path. But to ensure the latter choice, they must at last face the sometimes troubled history of their beautiful country.
2) Japanese ultranationalists are basically racist : they consider themselves the superior race, the one that preceded all others, and doesn't owe anything to anyone. They deny any influence of China or Korea in the development of the Archipelago, and during the Occupation of Korea, they were particularily violent and eager to annihilate the Korean culture and identity***. Forcing name changes was a key element in a cultural genocide planned from the start. Japan renamed Dokdo "Takeshima" in 1905, and like all the names changed during the occupation period ended with WWII, Korea restored the original name after the independance****.
3) What's in a name ? Significantly enough, Dokdo means "remote island" in Korean, which reflects the difficulty for this country to defend this couple of rocks far away from its mainland. Significantly enough, Takeshima means "bamboo island" in Japanese, which seems absurd considering the fact that not much can grow on these rocky islets but piles of guano. On the other hand, the name makes perfect sense if you know how bamboo reproduces : by its very name, "Takeshima", perfectly symbolizes the first implantation of imperial Japan on Korean soil during the 1905 wave (Dokdo was the first piece of land conquerred, the first outgrowth of the glorious Showa era in Korea). So when Tokyo's hardliner revisionists claim Dokdo as Takeshima nowadays, it is exactly the same as if they claimed Seoul as Gyeongseong-bu (its degraded name under the Occupation).
4) Japan's claims leverage on the fact that Dokdo was not mentioned in the 1951 San Francisco Peace Treaty, but Dokdo was mentioned as Korean in the initial versions. The US switched to a Japanese "Takeshima" in december 1949 drafts before avoiding any mention in the final version. The ephemeral attribution to Japan was due to lobbying, but also to the fear that Korea could fall in communist hands. But then the US realized they would be exposed to condemnations by international tribunals. Thus the final pat. Anyway, this Treaty didn't solve anything : neither China nor Korea were present, and no Japanese war crime was mentioned.
5) Actually, this is the core of the problem : unlike Germany, Japan never faced its own history. The reason ? The US and Japan sealed an unwritten pact after Hiroshima and Nagasaki : Japanese war criminals were never charged, the Emperor remained at the top, and Japan never accused the US for the use of nuclear weapons against civilians. And oh, Japan was forced to embrace democracy and peace.
6) Now that the last WWII survivors are disappearing, neofascist movements in Japan try to seize the opportunity and change the diplomatic agenda. Dokdo is only part of a vast revisionist scheme, where education is of course the key to the next generations.
Japan faces a crossroads : either it follows these warmongers and lets them rewrite history books, or it decides to stay on the path of peace and to let its people know what really happened during its darkest period.
It is time for the Japanese people to realize that such revisionism is meant to fuel nationalism across the region and force the return of warmongers at the helm of countries that either evolved towards democracy (Japan, Korea...) or may one day take that path (China is definitely contributing to this unfortunate trend, claiming the Koguryo culture*****).
It is time for the Japanese moderates aware of the dangers to wake up and expose these impostures.
Again**, Dokdo Islets are Korean territories, and even the Japanese government told so in the late XIXth century. Dokdo has been under the Japanese flag only during the Occupation, and the "Takeshima" claims are purely driven by the neofascist revival in the archipelago.
The vast majority of Japanese people are not claiming Dokdo / Takeshima. The core of the debate is not between Korea and Japan but between today's Japan and yesterday's Japan. And the key question is : which Japan will rule in the future ?
Actually, saving Dokdo is about saving Japan.
Epidermic reactions in Korea are exactly what these warmongers want : it ridicules all their other claims of restoration of the truth regarding the darkest face of the Showa rule (ie comfort women). And the contrast with the silent and indifferent Japanese people is striking. Actually, it is more ignorance than indifference : German kids know much more about Nazism than Japanese adults about the atrocities caused by the facist regime that ruled the region during the first half of last century.
It's up to the Japanese people to decide : allow those warmongers to set the diplomatic agenda and rewrite textbooks for the next generations, or continue on their peaceful path. But to ensure the latter choice, they must at last face the sometimes troubled history of their beautiful country.
Here are the actual historical facts :
1) Indeed, Dokdo happened to be Japanese in the past, but only during the occupation. Japan first claimed Dokdo a few months ahead of the 1905 invasion, via the Shimane Prefecture (so that the anschluss would be considered a international aggression). So if Japan claims Dokdo, it must also claim the whole Korean peninsula. When you consider both the Korean propaganda regarding Dokdo and the Japanese propaganda regarding Takeshima, the former has an historic perspective over 2 millenia and a great part of the proofs are actually Japanese documents, while the latter focuses on the XXth century, avoiding the crucial issue of the Japanese Occupation of Korea.2) Japanese ultranationalists are basically racist : they consider themselves the superior race, the one that preceded all others, and doesn't owe anything to anyone. They deny any influence of China or Korea in the development of the Archipelago, and during the Occupation of Korea, they were particularily violent and eager to annihilate the Korean culture and identity***. Forcing name changes was a key element in a cultural genocide planned from the start. Japan renamed Dokdo "Takeshima" in 1905, and like all the names changed during the occupation period ended with WWII, Korea restored the original name after the independance****.
3) What's in a name ? Significantly enough, Dokdo means "remote island" in Korean, which reflects the difficulty for this country to defend this couple of rocks far away from its mainland. Significantly enough, Takeshima means "bamboo island" in Japanese, which seems absurd considering the fact that not much can grow on these rocky islets but piles of guano. On the other hand, the name makes perfect sense if you know how bamboo reproduces : by its very name, "Takeshima", perfectly symbolizes the first implantation of imperial Japan on Korean soil during the 1905 wave (Dokdo was the first piece of land conquerred, the first outgrowth of the glorious Showa era in Korea). So when Tokyo's hardliner revisionists claim Dokdo as Takeshima nowadays, it is exactly the same as if they claimed Seoul as Gyeongseong-bu (its degraded name under the Occupation).
4) Japan's claims leverage on the fact that Dokdo was not mentioned in the 1951 San Francisco Peace Treaty, but Dokdo was mentioned as Korean in the initial versions. The US switched to a Japanese "Takeshima" in december 1949 drafts before avoiding any mention in the final version. The ephemeral attribution to Japan was due to lobbying, but also to the fear that Korea could fall in communist hands. But then the US realized they would be exposed to condemnations by international tribunals. Thus the final pat. Anyway, this Treaty didn't solve anything : neither China nor Korea were present, and no Japanese war crime was mentioned.
5) Actually, this is the core of the problem : unlike Germany, Japan never faced its own history. The reason ? The US and Japan sealed an unwritten pact after Hiroshima and Nagasaki : Japanese war criminals were never charged, the Emperor remained at the top, and Japan never accused the US for the use of nuclear weapons against civilians. And oh, Japan was forced to embrace democracy and peace.
6) Now that the last WWII survivors are disappearing, neofascist movements in Japan try to seize the opportunity and change the diplomatic agenda. Dokdo is only part of a vast revisionist scheme, where education is of course the key to the next generations.
Japan faces a crossroads : either it follows these warmongers and lets them rewrite history books, or it decides to stay on the path of peace and to let its people know what really happened during its darkest period.
It is time for the Japanese people to realize that such revisionism is meant to fuel nationalism across the region and force the return of warmongers at the helm of countries that either evolved towards democracy (Japan, Korea...) or may one day take that path (China is definitely contributing to this unfortunate trend, claiming the Koguryo culture*****).
It is time for the Japanese moderates aware of the dangers to wake up and expose these impostures.
It is time for the Japanese people to make revisionism illegal and, in order to succeed in this much needed task, to elect lawmakers that truly work for the good of their own country.
It's high time for Japan to cope with its past and, just like Germany, to teach its children an accurate and fair vision of history.
* "Japanese Textbooks to Repeat Dokdo Claim" (20080519)
** see "Red blogule to Japan's neofascists - forget Takeshima and Mandchukuo" and "Blogule rouge aux Jeunesses Japonaises - idees et chemises noires" (20060502), "Blogule blanc a Ban Ki-moon - drapeau blanc sur Dokdo" (20060420) "Red blogule to Japan - No UN Council seat for an Unrepentant Nation" and "Blogule rouge au Japon - Pas de siège au conseil de sécurité de l'ONU pour les révisionnistes" (20050410)
*** Nowadays, they use more subtle means and mostly focus on revisionism, trying to either destroy proofs or to forge new ones (ie fake archeological discoveries of ancient Japanese civilizations). Their recent remobilization has been fueled by the recent love affair between the two people : Japanese culture is popular in Korea (which stopped censoring cultural goods as a retaliation for the wartime atrocities), and many Japanese people started learning Korean to follow the dramas in their original versions (I wish they fell for better embassadors of Korean culture than Bae Young-june). Worse : the Emperor declared his friendship towards Korea and confirmed that part of his blood is Korean !
**** note that the "Sea of Japan" was never formally renamed "East Sea" (... not to mention "Sea of Korea"). That change (officialized in Monaco in 1929) was very important for ultranationalists : if the body of water on your Western shores is labeled "East Sea", how can your country claim it as its own ?
**